Sabahan Woman Shares Cultural Heritage Through Food and Gardening in France

26 April 2025

KOTA KINABALU: In the windswept countryside of Finistère, at the westernmost tip of France, a piece of Sabah is flourishing. Elvena Dolusim@Podeur, who moved from her hometown of Beluran to France in December 2019, has built a life deeply connected to her heritage, nature, and family.

At 31, Elvena, a University of Malaya graduate with a degree in Social Science (Geography), now resides in a small town in Finistère. There, she raises her children and cultivates a vibrant garden—a link between the lush landscapes of Borneo and the rolling hills of Brittany.

“My mother was my biggest inspiration. She had a strong passion for growing vegetables and fruits, and watching her tend to our garden with such care and joy made a lasting impression on me. From a young age, I knew I wanted to follow in her footsteps and carry on that passion,” she shared.

Her gardening journey in France began in July 2020 when she planted her first crops: salad greens and French beans. With no prior experience of temperate-climate gardening, Elvena relied on trial and error, alongside valuable tips from her in-laws.

Today, her flourishing garden includes fruit trees such as apples, pears, peaches, plums, grapes, kiwi, and various berries, alongside an impressive array of vegetables: carrots, tomatoes, onions, garlic, and a selection of well-loved Sabahan greens like chayote, losun and tutan.

Gardening with the Seasons

Unlike in Malaysia, where crops can be planted year-round, gardening in France follows a seasonal rhythm.

“Spring to early summer is the main planting period. Summer heat can be unpredictable; some years it’s scorching, while others are quite mild. I’ve learned to adapt and take notes each season,” she explained.

In 2022, temperatures soared to nearly 40°C. But in 2024, summer days rarely exceeded 28°C, with most hovering between 18°C and 22°C—slowing growth and delaying harvests. Despite these challenges, Elvena’s hard work continues to bear fruit, often producing more than her family can consume.

“During the harvesting season between June and September, we often have surplus produce from the garden, so I share it with our neighbours whenever I can. They’re always very appreciative and it’s nice to see them enjoy something that I’ve grown myself.”

She documents her gardening journey on Instagram, Facebook, and YouTube, where she’s built a growing community of Malaysians and gardening enthusiasts inspired by her passion.

Flavours of Home

The garden isn’t the only way Elvena stays close to her heritage. In the kitchen, she recreates beloved Sabahan dishes like pinarasakan, bosou, and stir-fried papaya shoots. For her, the kitchen is not only a place to feed her family but also a space to honour and pass on her cultural roots.

To recreate these familiar flavours, Elvena sources key ingredients directly from Sabah, including the state’s renowned soy sauce, takob akob, and tuhau. While some items are available at Asian grocers in Brest, the nearest major town in Finistère, the high cost often limits what she can buy. This challenge has motivated her to grow many of her own ingredients.

“During my second pregnancy, I craved kangkong. Here, it’s sold by weight, and 100 grams costs around 5 euros—roughly RM25. That’s how expensive imported Asian vegetables can be,” she said.

“But at the same time, there are plenty of fresh, affordable local fruits and vegetables. You just have to be smart about what you buy and how you spend.”

Sharing the flavours of Malaysia and Sabah with her French family and friends has become one of Elvena’s greatest joys. Whenever they host guests, she delights in preparing dishes such as mee goreng, ayam masak merah, popiah, and vegetable fritters, often introducing her guests to new tastes and traditions.

Elvena recalled a particularly proud moment in March 2025, when her father-in-law invited friends over for lunch and specifically requested Malaysian cuisine.

"I was thrilled! I served Sabahan mee goreng, chicken fried rice, soy-braised beef, and vegetable fritters," she said. "They kept saying, 'Oh là là… c’est très bon!'"

Her mother-in-law also embraced the experience, successfully preparing popiah filled with chicken and curried potatoes on her first attempt.

"It was truly meaningful to share something from home and see them enjoy it so much. Watching my mother-in-law take interest and actually enjoy making a Sabahan dish was heart-warming. It made me feel like a piece of Sabah was truly welcomed and appreciated here in France," she added.

Though she has yet to introduce stronger-tasting delicacies like salted fish, bosou, or belacan, Elvena looks forward to sharing these dishes when the time is right.

As for European cuisine, Elvena has embraced it with open arms. She genuinely enjoys the diversity of flavours found in both French and continental dishes and values the local emphasis on fresh, high-quality ingredients.

A Garden Sanctuary

Adjusting to life in France has not always been smooth sailing for Elvena. The language barrier posed an early challenge, making everyday tasks and conversations daunting at first. And then there’s the weather, particularly the long, grey winters which took the greatest toll on her spirits.

“Winter is still my least favourite season,” she admitted. “The cold, windy weather and the lack of sunlight, it can really get to you after a while.”

Yet amid the challenges, her garden has become a place of refuge and restoration. Whether it’s tending to her crops or simply sitting among the greenery, she finds a sense of calm and clarity there that helps her cope with homesickness and stress.

“Even 20 or 30 minutes outside helps me feel at peace. It’s my way of healing,” she said.

Elvena’s children have also developed a love for gardening, especially during strawberry season. These shared moments not only bring the family closer together but also teach them valuable lessons about sustainability and a deeper appreciation for nature, making the garden a place for both learning and connection.

“It makes me happy to see them learning where food comes from and building a connection with nature,” she shared. “I hope it’s something they carry with them as they grow.”

Growing Far from Home

Elvena’s journey embodies quiet strength, cultural pride, and a profound love for her family, Sabah, and the land she now calls home. Through her garden, she continues to nurture a deep sense of belonging and purpose.

Looking ahead, she aspires to share her knowledge and experiences with a broader audience, particularly as global food prices rise and individuals seek more sustainable lifestyles.

“I believe gardening offers a practical solution. Even a small garden with essentials like chili, lemongrass, or leafy greens can significantly reduce household expenses and make a real difference,” she emphasised.

From the red earth of Beluran to the green hills of Brittany, Elvena’s story serves as a subtle reminder that our roots can thrive—regardless of how far we’ve journeyed.